Tenderloin at Cordonnier's Place

2221 S. Fourth St., 279-0826

"The best hot tenderloin I've ever had. Good size. Absolutely wonderful."

- Sue Bayless, St. Joseph

Just when you thought there was no place in town to indulge in fried carp, guess what? The Cordonniers are back. Joyce and David "Mo" Cordonnier ran Cordonnier's Place for 28 years until they thought they would finally relax and lease it out in 2006. But several attempts at doing so did not work out, so less than a month ago, they decided to get back in business making their legendary hand-cut tenderloin sandwiches, catfish. homemade french fries and what they are known best for: fried carp. The trick to fixing carp, Mo says, is you've got to know what you're doing. And that they do, being that his family has been in the restaurant business for 70 years and fishing the river for more than 100. There's also a family-friendly full bar on the other side of the restaurant where you can relax with the usual pool tables and TVs.

The only problem with Cordonnier's Place, if you've never been there before, is finding it. Following Mapquest will just get you lost. The address is listed as Fourth Street, but you'll never see it because it's hidden away among the highway signs and big trucks parked along 759 Highway. Joyce says she tells everyone it's south of the bridge on 759 Highway off of 36 Highway about one and a half blocks. Turn left on the first street you come to, which is Hickory. It's located with some other well-known watering holes, Hap's Place and Mackenzie's Bar and Grill. You'll know you are there when you see the brown storage building in back with a big fish drawn on the wall. Hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays and Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Fridays. They are closed on Sundays.